Roofing drains often experience elevated loads, due to which the gutters savage, the joints of the elements are diverged, the attachments are weakened. We tell how to make the drainage system as reliably as possible, how to maintain and repair it.
Registration of the roof of the roof is an important stage of any construction. If you allow errors here, then subsequently for repair will have to construct forests. Photo: Docke.
Correct installation of waterproof
The pledge of the durability of roofing drains is competent installation. It is desirable not to postpone, but plan for the same season as the main roofing work, and entrust the same brigade. And to begin with the calculation of the bandwidth system.
Gutter and tubes from zinc-titanium are perfectly combined with buildings of modern architecture. Photo: Lindab.
Calculation of the system
The drainage scheme of the drain. Visualization: Vladimir Grigoriev / Burda Media
When choosing the size of the section of the grooves and pipes, they proceed from the roof area. You do not have to solve complex mathematical tasks, as most companies offer components of only two sizes: for the roofs of 60-100 m2 (gutter 110-120 mm wide and pipes with a diameter of 80-90 mm) and for the roofs of 80-150 m2 (respectively 120-150 and 100-125 mm).
It is a yellow up to 8 m long enough to equip one descent (vertical tube) installed on one of the corners of the building. Sometimes to ensure the stock of bandwidth in case of a very strong shower, it is arranged additional descents, making the grooves of the gutters from the middle to the ends.
The gutter from copper is very durable, as they are protected by natural oxide film. Great combined with classic cottages. Zinc and copper are incompatible with each other due to electrochemical corrosion. Photo: Fricke.
Mounting points
Next, you need to decide with the method of fastening the grooves and preparation of the base for holders (brackets).
The gutter is installed on the hook-shaped brackets of two types: the first screwed to the wind board, the second (extended) - on top to the cutter or rafters (attachments from the bottom to the rafter tie, it is better to avoid, since at the same way the holders often do not maintain the masses of the filled chutes and bend).
Taps are made at an angle of no more than 35 ° to minimize the hydraulic resistance in the pipe. Photo: Lindab.
Fastening to the wind board is used most often, as it does not delay the main roofing works; In addition, for plastic chutes, only this kind of brackets produce. So that the fixation was reliable, the wind board should have a thickness of at least 25 mm and screwed to the ends of the rafted galvanized self-drawing with a length of more than 70 mm and a diameter of 5 mm.
Installation of extended brackets is carried out before laying roofing. At the same time, the method is much easier to ensure the strength and correctly install drippers - metal strips that ensure the flow of condensate from the roof and the underpants waterproofing.
The gutters equip all levels of the roof. Photo: Rheinzink.
Positioning
The edge of the roofing material should hang over a more than ½ width of the latter. At the same time, there should be a gap of about 3 cm between the line of continuation of the skate and the outer edge. The optimal bias towards the funnels is 4-6 mm for 1 p. m.; It is exhibited using a water level.
The exact positioning of the chutes is much simplified by adjustable brackets, allowing after attachment to the board to change the slope of the hook and its position in height (usually in the range of 50 mm); Such components are, for example, in the assortment of Aquasystem and Lindab. The pitch of brackets for metal gutters should not exceed 600 mm, for plastic - 500 mm, for vertical pipes (and plastic, and metal) - 2 m.
The drain gutter with the mesh lids are good only in a relatively dry climate. With abundant precipitation, leaves and needles stick to the grid, and it is quite difficult to remove them.
In the presence of endanda, the flashes are performed from the inner corner. Photo: Lindab.
Maintenance and repair of drainage
Once in 3-4 years, the drains are desirable to expose audit. If the house is one-storey, this is not a problem: you can use a stepladder or make a device that allows you to clean the gutter from the bottom - a rod or a shovel on a long, curved with the top end of the handle.
The owners of two-storey houses can not do without an inlet staircase, and for more or less serious repairs will have to build forests - metallic prefabricated (they can be leased) or boardmen. At the same time, it is necessary to follow safety and be sure to use the safety belt.
Even on one-story buildings, it is impossible to mount a gutter without descents (vertical pipes): water falling from a height, blurs the lawn and the breakfast, moisturizes the lower part of the building walls.
The usual order of revision is as follows. To begin with, remove garbage and contamination, which accumulate on the inner walls of the grooves, especially near the catchment funnels. If the galvanized gutter, it is impossible to use hard brushes and abrasives.
After 3-4 years of operation, it makes sense to check the bias and reliability of the fastening of the grooves. Photo: Vladimir Grigoriev / Burda Media
Then check the slopes, as well as the reliability of fastening and docking the elements. If the gutter has saved, you need to install additional brackets.
Tighten the pipe clamps, if necessary, replace damaged items. Photo: Vladimir Grigoriev / Burda Media
The separated joints of the parts are sealing with bitumen-rubber roofing sealants (for PVC drains can also use special glue).
If corrosion of metal parts (protective paintwork and zinc coatings were damaged during installation, the falling of the branches, cleaning the snow, etc.), then it is required to be considered, to process the surface with the rust converter, after which it is primed and painted. With end-to-end corrosion, the hole is lubricated with a polyurethane sealant or put a wrapper from reinforced rubber or fiberglass, impregnated with epoxy resin (better from the inside of a yellow or tube). If the defect area exceeds 2 cm2, it is advisable to replace the part.
At the end of the revision, the eaves should be examined and make sure that the water does not flow through the wind board anywhere. When traces of moisture and fallen areas, the integrity of the roofing coating on the cornese swell is checked.
Gutter with profile lattices practically exclude clogging of the funnels. Photo: Ruplast.
What material for drainage to choose?
The most popular waterproofs from PVC and galvanized painted steel - those and others are widely represented in building markets and in specialized hypermarkets.
Manufactured by manufacturers The service life of plastic products is 20-30 years. They are relatively inexpensive (on average 500 rubles. For 1 m. M Horing, 750 rubles. For 1 p. M. Pipes and 400 rubles. For the shaped element), carefully look, do not give in corrosion and sufficiently racks to temperature drops. When installing the joints of the elements are sealed with integrated rubber gaskets or glue gel. By cons of PVC waterproofs, a significant linear expansion coefficient should be attributed (however, this lack is easily overcome by the use of sliding brackets), reduced shock strength in frosts below -10 ° C (hence the increased risk of ice damage) and the property should be changed in the sun.
Photo: Docke.
Steel drains are on average one and a half times more expensive, but also to serve somewhat longer - at least 50 years. Modern paintworks applied by leading firms, racks for ultraviolet and do not change the color for at least 20 years. But both steel details, of course, there are disadvantages. So, they require more accurate installation (thin tin is easy to deform; do not cut the parts of the grinder, the disc of which anneales the coating at a distance of up to 5 mm from the cut), are noisy during the rain, and in the case of damage to the coating, rust begin to rust.
In practice, the choice of metal or plastic often depends on the subjective factors. Say, plastic gutters are not always easy to choose one tone with a metal tile (and in general the choice of colors of steel drains is richer). Evalnamed and skills of a particular brigade of roofers, which, for example, can have a wealth of experience with plastic and only in general terms to imagine the technology of mounting metal systems.
Logging fasteners are not afraid of even hurricane wind, but such systems cost 2-3 times more expensive. Photo: Rheinzink.
The most common causes of gutters
- There is no lack of roofing on the wind board. As a result of regular moistening, the board of 10-15 years rotates and ceases to hold the attachment of the brackets of the drainy horror.
- The wind board is unreliable attached to the rafters (for example, nailed for lining). Under the weight of the groove filled with water, she can simply break away.
- The outer edge of the fool is significantly overlooked the plane of the dropper, while there are no roofing snow-bees. As a result, the gutter is deformed and break down from the roof snow.
- The gutters are installed with the contraloon, or increased over tolerance of the pitch of the brackets. As a result, water and ice and ice accumulate, and under the influence of long loads there are persistent deformation.
- Waterborne funnels clogged. If there are high trees nearby, the mouth of the pipes can clog foliage and cheese, and then the gutter will be constantly filled with water.
- For PVC systems: It is rudely attached to the brackets. Without the ability to lengthen freely when heated, it bends, twisted and looks inactively, although often continues to perform its function.