Installation of vinyl siding: step-by-step instruction

Anonim

We tell about the peculiarities of vinyl siding, stages of installation with the help of specialists and about installing with their own hands.

Installation of vinyl siding: step-by-step instruction 13984_1

Installation of vinyl siding: step-by-step instruction

Vinyl coating is widely used in the construction of frame and frame-panel houses, cottages from light blocks and panels, during the reconstruction and insulation of older bars and log cottages. Examples of negligent sheaturing are literally at every turn. Such works are not considered complex and responsible, so they are often charged with a brigade without relevant experience or perform themselves. It is quite acceptable, but only after exploring the step-by-step instructions. First you need to learn everything about the properties of the material that determine the technology of editing vinyl siding.

Vinyl Siding Installation Features

Specificity PVC

Alternatives

Installation of vinyl siding by experts

  • Planning
  • Measurement and calculation of the cost
  • Preparation of contract
  • Work at the facility

Installation with your own hands

  • Okeekhet
  • Cut
  • Fastening
  • Docking panels

Care and repair

5 ways to save

Typical errors

Polyvinyl chloride specificity

The coating is made by extrusion from a hot PVC compound. This technology is brought to perfection, the formulation of compositions is toughly controlled. Marriage is rare. Despite this, products possess special properties that complicate their operation. They differ in length (2-6 m), width (10-30 cm), thick (0.96-1.2 mm), shape ("Christmas tree" or "ship timber"), the number of boards on one prefab group (2 -4), their width (4-6.5 "), as well as relief.

The wall thickness usually does not exceed 1.5 mm. They are extremely flexible and accurately follow the contours defined by the frame grid. More rigid, for example, a massive block chamo, help to detect irregularities and partly reveal them. In addition, PVC is subject to temperature expansion and compression. When the temperature drop is 40 ° C, the change in linear dimensions at a length of 6 m will be about 19 mm. On a sunny summer day, it will warm up to 50 ° C and will be 44 mm longer than in the winter stub. This property dictates the need for a device for compensation gaps in the corners, at the joints and the openings.

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Note that the dark surface is heated in the sun is stronger than light. The oscillations of its size is 20% more. It is necessary to take into account not only the limit value of expansion and compression, but also the conditions for the work. Let's say if the July heat in the yard, the gaps are reduced, and on cold days, on the contrary, they increase. Finally, under negative temperature, the material becomes hard and fragile. In such conditions, installation can be carried out by observing caution and using special cutting techniques and fastening without pressure on the part.

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Alternative materials

Along with the PVC finish on the market, acrylic details are widely represented. They cost 2 times more expensive, but more resistant to temperature drops and painted in bright and saturated tones. Acrylic is hard and successfully imitates a log (block mobile).

Galvanized steel with a colored polymer coating is preferable from the point of view of fire safety. It is tougher, which allows you to increase the pitch of the root of up to 600-800 mm. In addition, it is less susceptible to thermal expansion. The magnitude of compensating gaps when using galvanized steel is 3 times less. The disadvantages include high price and sensitivity to local effects: even with a weak impact on the surface there will be a lack-in dent.

A more promising is the trim from the wood-polymer composite. It is durable, the weatherposts and effectively looks at the expense of a pronounced texture. Empty panels have a thickness of 14-16 mm and reinforced with ribbon ribs. The same can be said about fibro-cement siding, successfully imitating a rudely sharp and painted board.

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Installation of vinyl siding by experts

Planning

First, you need to present well how the house will look like after decoration. Secondly, you will need to find that part of the project, where there are all external walls with all sizes. If there is no project, you will have to draw sketches indicating all the dimensions. Thirdly, it is necessary to find a reliable company.

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The employee of the firm will help to choose all the technical parameters, as well as the color of the main and challenges (J-, F- and H-profiles, wind boards, internal and external corners, platbands, completing the plank, etc.). They can be one color. To add diversity, the coating is often "mixed". For example, the first floor is separated by horizontal boards, and the second - vertical. Pastel tones are well combined with bright. This technique allows you to select fragments of the facade.

Measures and calculations

The manager you need the drawing or sketch of the walls you have brought the drawing or sketch to calculate the required number of details on it. According to the calculation, you will call the estimated cost of work. The customer often gives incorrect information about his home. For example, it is almost always sure that the walls of the construction are perfectly smooth, because the installation can be carried out without a crate. In fact, smooth walls practically does not happen, and the frame grid is necessary in 99% of cases. So, so that the preliminary value has become the final one, the specialist should go to the object, who will determine the following points in place.
  • The suitability of the house for installation of siding. The base should be strong enough to withstand the weight of the structure. If it crepts, it will have to strengthen it.
  • The possibility of installing forests, goat and other devices.
  • True sizes of the facade. The discrepancies between the dimensions on the drawing provided (sketch) and the fact that there is in reality, sometimes reach 10%.

During the measurement at the facility, its owner should be present to clarify technical issues on the spot.

Preparation of contract

It records all the terms of the agreement, as well as the payment procedure. Annexes indicate the amount of material supplied and the scope of work.

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As a rule, a typical contract is used in which additional items are made if necessary. It necessarily provides for penalties. To get under them with the unfair fulfillment of the conditions risk both sides. The performer may present them due to the delay in the post of payment of the next stage, as well as at easy of your fault. Such situations arise when several firms work at the facility. Often they interfere with each other. To figure out who is right, and who is to blame, it is quite difficult, so it is better to invite only one company.

The client is entitled to demand the payment of a fine when changing the deadlines for the delivery of an object without objective reasons, when marriage is detected and in case of damage to house, furniture and other property.

When drawing up a contract, it is better to consult with a lawyer

Work at the facility

We should consider the issues of power supply, accommodation and access of workers to the object, as well as the time of work.

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If the house is not connected to electricity, the workers will bring the generator with them. If the house is in Dali from the place of stay of workers, it is better to place the brigade right on the object or next to it. The production process in this case will go much faster. Many firms offer to install on the trailer-cabinet area.

If the site is located on a closed for an extraneous territory, it is necessary to agree with the protection, to provide working keys from the gate or solve the problem in another way.

The noise produced by the brigade will interfere with the neighbors. They need to be warned about the upcoming event and specify the time of it. Typically, the period from 9:00 to 18:00 suits all parties.

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Installation of vinyl siding with your own hands

You can cope on your own, if you act according to the instructions. The coating is installed not only in summer, but also in winter, but at low temperatures it is easy to split.

Grussol

It consists of vertical and horizontal elements. First install racks that have 30-60 cm increments depending on the wind load. Then there comes the queue of the lower strapping required to attach the starting strip. At the end, the horizontal rails under and above the window and door peters are fixed. They will help fix slippels, fed and threshold board for the entrance door.

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The grid can be made of conventional wooden rails with a cross section of 25x50 or 25x75 mm, brucks with a cross section of 40x50 or 50x50 mm. It is necessary to ensure that the moisture of sawn timber does not exceed 40%. You need to give them to dry under the roof of 1-2 weeks. You need to discard details with large bitch and noticeable defects. It is advisable to impregnate the wood with flame-proof composition to extend its service life up to 40-50 years. In a moderately humid climate without processing, it will be 20-25 years old.

Bruschers and log walls The frame is fixed with long (100-150 mm) self-drawing, adjusting the reference to plastic linings or antiseptic wood. For foam blocks, it is advisable to use special dowels. If you need to increase the distance to the wall (for example, when the house insulation), use steel galvanized brackets. They are easy to make from the perforated strip; But the metal thickness should be at least 1.5 mm.

You can not allow errors when aligning the racks. A deviation of 1-2 cm from the general level will cause the appearance of irregularities. First, the corners are put on the plumb. Laser level is more convenient, but the light feature is clearly visible only in cloudy weather and in the evening. The position of the racks must be controlled within the entire facade. This goal is the beacons - horizontal shoelaces, stretched from the angle to the corner in increments of 1-1, 5 m.

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If the wooden house has not yet given the shrinkage, the racks make longitudinal feeds of about 10 cm, through which they are attached to the supporting structures. Sometimes the makeup is made of galvanized P-shaped profiles for drywall. They are perfectly direct that at first glance should provide a higher quality finish. However, in practice, the gain from the use of metal is minimal, because the profiles, the standard length of which is 3 m, usually you have to be allowed that it makes it difficult to install. What about the durability of the steel grid there is also no conclusion: when the temperature drops on the metal falls condensate, and in places of damage to the zinc coating, the material starts rust. Meanwhile, metal profiles are 2.5-3 times more expensive than wooden plates.

Cut

The panels have to be cut both in transverse and in the longitudinal direction. In addition, on the blanks of the desired length, it is necessary to remove the lock part at a distance of about 4 cm from the end. All these operations are easy to perform metal scissors. They can be cut on weight, without filling in the electrocabyle. The blades must be correctly shaped. The easiest way to take into the store or market a fragment with a lock and experience several tools. In the absence of experience, as well as in the frost, it is better to use a grinder with a thin cutting disk with a diameter of 125 mm. Such a disk or hand-hacking for metal cut the challenge profiles of complex sections.

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At a negative temperature, PVC becomes more fragile. Scissors for metal in such conditions are not suitable. With frosts need a tool with small teeth.

Fastening

To this stage, it is projected only after checking the design in terms of level and plumb. Siding is fixed with galvanized self-drawing with a length of 16-20 mm through the provided oval holes. Screw must be located in the center of the hole and in no case press the item to the cut. The mobility of each installed item must be monitored.

Professional builders use nails, but for this requires a special skill. To score them with an indent of 1-2 mm, necessary in order for the elements of the sheathing can move at a temperature expansion.

First fix the starting strip. To give it a strict horizontal position, it is better to apply on the base of the level using a level. Then mounted external and internal angles. The upper end must be located at a distance of 6 mm from the top edge of the wall, and the bottom - 2 cm below the starting strip. At this stage, N-profiles are put if the fragments are joined through them, and not the brass, as well as the final planks and J-profiles.

Installation is made bottom up. The fixed panel is refilled into the elements covering its ends (internal and external angles or n-profiles), and is riveted to the lock of the starting strip or the previous part. Then it is attached galvanized nails or self-drawing. It should be able to move under the action of thermal expansion.

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It is necessary to monitor the uniformity of tension from one edge to another. A small skew can gradually paint into the curvature of the whole wall. The very upper part sometimes has to be cut, because it does not fit all the height. By applying a special support, from the side of the cut, the hooks are made at a distance of 0.6 cm from the edge with a step of 20-25 cm. Then the cropped edge is moved to the final strip, and the lock is adjusted to the lock item. That is, this part of the coating is not nailed - its reliable mount must ensure the hooks. When cutting to the top of the top of the facade, it is better to use the template to duplicate the spokes of the front.

Docking

Usually, the sides are joining the bracket, and not necessarily on the brucks of the root: the longitudinal castle reliably holds the component part. The jokes have a rotary - so they are less noticeable. Another option provides for the use of a vertical H-shaped profile or J-slats. Sometimes it is possible to reduce the number of cropping, but the framework of the frame is well noticeable. If you fail to place them, the face of the facade will suffer. The docking profiles are indispensable for two-color finishing and imitation of the half-timber.

Each material has its own characteristics. Information about the necessary care can be obtained from the instructions for installing vinyl siding.

Care and repair

PVC sheathing quickly loses its original gloss. If the house is located next door to the road, dust and soot are settled on the embossed surface. The facades located on the northern side are often covered with fungal nails. However, it is quite simple to care for the trim, especially if the farm has a sink of high pressure. Remove fat stains will help the usual dish, and the traces of oil paint is easy to wash off White spirit. It is impossible to use license plates.

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To replace the damaged part, you do not need to shoot nearby. A longitudinal lock is not so difficult to disconnect, pressing on the surface from top to bottom and carefully approaching the hook-shaped hook-sleeved chisel. Of course, the repair should be performed only in warm weather.

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How to save

Purchase of goodworthy increases the cost of 1 m2 of the trim by 25-30%. On this article, the consumption can be safely saved.

  • Accurately calculate the length of the inner and external angles, connecting and finishing profiles or agree with the provider about the possibility of passing unnecessary elements.
  • Buy the starting strip only for one facade. In the future, it will not be easy to make from cut upper locks.
  • Nice systems and platbands from PVC are arrogant. If you build a house in hard savings, they can be made of wood (of course, you need to carefully choose the color and shape of the framing).
  • Do not hurry to separate pillars, narrow simplests and erkers - use trimming for this purpose.
  • You can svew the cornice of a unwaped roof in conventional panels - there is no need to buy expensive perforated sophimes. For ventilation, the attic can serve the frontal windows.

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Typical errors

1. Incorrect selection of insulation to protect walls from wind and moisture

To reduce purge and improve the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls, they are often tightened with a polymer coating before lining. Such protection is necessary even in order to eliminate the likelihood of moisturizing by condensate, generated on the inner surface of the siding.

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Rough error - the use of polyethylene and polypropylene films. They do not miss steam, so the inner surface begins to dance. You can put Parchment, but it is not durable enough. It is better to purchase a modern diffusion membrane.

2. Insufficient cross section and poor quality bars

It is necessary to choose a rake and brus with a cross section of no less than 25 × 50 mm. Ideally - perceptual planed, humidity no more than 20%. When independent sawing, the products with bitch need to be discarded, to dry the material in a hidden from the bad weather of a stack of at least a month, after which it is again to rebel strongly vulnerable products.

3. Careless leveling of the root, "challenge" corners

PVC coating is flexible. It completely repeats all the irregularities of the base. It is enough to make a mistake with the installation of a single rail - and the facade will appear ugly in or bloating. The correct installation involves alignment on laces, tightly stretched between extreme (angular) rails. For alignment of the frame, lining from the treated tree-processed wood or plywood is suitable. Corner parts are aligned with a plumb or laser level.

4. Installing a continuous support rail under the starting strip

The air should freely penetrate the trim from the base and go out of the cornices. A solid support will block the gap and worsen the ventilation of the wall. To increase the area and strength of the starting strip mounting, you can use horizontal cuts of bars with a length of 20-25 cm, installed exactly in the middle between vertical elements.

5. Increased mesh and finishing

The framework of the frame must be installed in increasing no more than 50 cm and secure the walls with a step of no more than 80 cm at least in four points within the flood. The coating must be screwed without skipping. Only in this case it will be sufficiently resistant to wind loads and exposure when washing water pressure.

6. Non-accurate siding cutting

When cutting with scissors in cool weather, plastic can crack. It is better to use a grinder with a thin cutting disc.

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7. Neglecting the factor in thermal expansion and compression

When the temperature drops, the change in the linear dimensions of the elements 6 m long will be about 12 mm. It is necessary to leave a compensation gap of about 6 m. It should take into account not only the limit value of expansion / compression, but also other conditions. If the July heat in the yard, the gaps are reduced, and at a temperature of about 0 ° C increase.

Panels for the outer decoration during installation can not be tightly pressing fastener to the slats. Under the heads of screws should remain a gap of 1-2 mm. Experienced builders after installing each part check its mobility.

8. Wrong selection of fasteners

A gross mistake is the use of stapler brackets - extremely short-lived and interfering temperature deformation. It is difficult to work with roofing nails, besides, they cause cracking of the ripers. Funny screws with small hats will not fit. And the optimal variant is galvanized screws with a length of about 25 mm with flat round hats with a diameter of 10-12 mm.

For detailed instructions for setting siding, see the video.

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