Restoration of the enamel coating is a difficult procedure, and to trust it better by professionals. But if you decide to do it yourself, we will tell you how to do it.
It is possible that the new bath after washing with cleaning agents becomes snow-white, but baths that served more than one year, often imported tools help our influenza aspirin. How many neither three of its bulk or liquid chemistry, it still remains dirty, and besides, with a rough surface. The reason is not at all that the advertising chlorinol does not penetrate through the domestic enamel coating, and in the fact that the protective film of these coatings has long been erased and the dirt is eaten in them almost to the metal itself.
The resident of a major city does not make sense to do this independently, since a qualified specialist will do everything for sure better, and the cost of these works is relatively small. The same who trusts only their hands or lives in the area, where such experts are missing, our magazine will help to master the technology of restoration of the enamel layer. Moreover, the procedure is not too time-consuming and as a rule, a newcomer is manifested from the first time when the sequence of operations and the use of appropriate materials is observed.
In order for the reader, there was no questions, we will consider ways to restore all the options for damage to the coating of the bath, except, except those that occur during massive bombardment and the artillery shelling with heavy guns. The most common damage is a small chipping and destruction of the enamel surface film up to the exposure of the metal base.
The most dramatic option is the last, that is, the degree of cast iron or steel continuing. Metal rust and at the chip, and with any violation of the enamel layer, it is difficult to clean up rusty drums "decorate" the walls of the bath under the crane. Therefore, the first stage of processing should be the removal of rust. The longing of all means dissolving rust includes acids converting brown metal oxides into colorless salts. More aggressive agents (for example, the "sanitary-2" liquid) containing hydrochloric acid act faster (about 10 minutes) than gentle powders and pastes "Kama", "Sourja", "Tartaren", "Rust Choomer" and others), But the enamel is destroyed and require a long and thorough subsequent flushing, as well as strict compliance with the safety rules specified in the instructions for their use (rubber gloves, safety glasses and so on). Quite efficiently and without consequences are removed with rust 15-20% aqueous solutions of organic acids (for example, sorval and some others).
Working with acid, take care of the protection of hands and eyes.
Powders or pastes are applied to a wet sponge or cloth and wipe the pre-moisturized surface. Liquid wet rusty stains and treated with a brush in ten minutes. At the end of purification, the surface is thoroughly washed with water and dried before the next operation.
The pre-dried portion of the bare metal is ground. You can use the usual glyphthawic primer GF-020. It has good adhesion to the metal and is suitable for coloring nitroemals. RS-2 is used for intake of the solvent for soil. The applied layer is dried at room temperature of 48 hours, and it is better to apply forced drying with a reflector, placing it at 10-15 cm from the surface. The corrosion portion is aligned with the rest of the surface, imposing on top of the soil putty NC-008 (solvent N647). Apply it with subtle layers not exceeding 0.2mm. At room temperature, the putty NTS-008 dries in about 1 hour.
On top of the last layer of putty, the soil is applied again and dried.
| Of course, if you wish, you can find a bath and in a more deplorable state, but the email coverage disorders presented in photographs are enough to demonstrate the recovery methods described in the article. |
| It is advisable to begin the processing of rust divorces, it is advisable from a "soft" variant using a relatively poorly aggressive oxalic acid. Mixed with water to the kashitz-shaped state of acid crystals Apply a layer with a thickness of several millimeters with a tissue or foam tampon on rust and glossy "islands" enamel, which preserved the original shine in the "sea" of a matte, isolated surface. |
| After half an hour, forty minutes, wash the acid "fur coat" with water. If it turns out that the rust is not completely removed, you can resort to the mechanical method of cleaning the surface. In addition to the depth of rust penetration in the enamel layer for this purpose, both thin abrasive powders and coarse sandpaper can be used. Especially carefully process the border of the transition of a smooth surface in the matte. |
| Flushing after chemical and mechanical treatments should be very careful because even in minor amounts of acid can destroy the enamel coating. |
| At the end of the washing, make sure that the rust traces are left, and let the bath firmly dry. |
| The applying of the soil on the nude metal surface can be made in the traditional way, as shown in this photo. However, with the current abundance of soil coatings, it is quite possible to use the aerosol primer (for example, the "Rust Curb" of Chase Productsco.), Which perfectly falls on Rzavchin. It should only be remembered that the aerosol bottles before use must be shaken for mixing the composition until the ball inside the bottle becomes completely obvious and uniform. Upon completion of the apparatus, it is necessary to give it to dry, but a forced drying can be used using a reflector when using large amounts of solvent (as in the case of aerosol primer, for example). |
| For the actual color, in addition to the enameled enamels, you can use more efficient, albeit more expensive sets to restore enamel bathing. The trading network offers the domestic set "Svetlana", which includes sowing acid and sandpaper, as well as the Finnish set (Tikkurila), consisting of two components - enamel and hardener. |
The sequence of applying enamels on the ground is the same as when painting an enamel layer with a disturbed surface film. Therefore, before telling about the final operation of the restoration of the bath, we will tell about the embodiment of a small damage. Valid dreams from the previous case, here it is not necessary to primitive and putty, but it is necessary to degrease the "rough" surface with acetone, solvents NN 646-648, 650, RML-218, RK-36 with a tissue tampon. Degreasing must be done very carefully, since this stage ensures the subsequent reliability of the colorful coating.
A degreasing or primed surface is stained with nitroemal. It is better to apply a thick "cannon" nitroemal Nz-11, since NC-1111, NTS-259 and others are contained in NC-1111, NC-259, and there is a significant amount of solvent, and it reduces the life of paint. The surface of the bath is watched with a tissue tampon (the foam will not fit, because it dissolves nitroemal) into three layers, each of which should dry for 20-30 minutes. When painting, it should be remembered that the nitroemali is "reversible", that is, when applying a new layer, you can dissolve the previous one. In addition, with high relative humidity in the bathroom (60% or more), the paint film can be covered with spots or even crack, so it is desirable to put the reflector in the bath, but it's not so close to the painted surface, as in priming. The upper feeding layer of enamels must be slightly mixed with the N648 solvent using a tampon (after removing the reflector). Dissolving the enamel of this layer and quickly disappeared, the solvent contributes to the formation of a smooth semi-tailed film. Fully enamel dries in a day. After that, if desired, the surface can be polished with polishing paste N290 or VAZ-1, VAZ-2 using flannel flap.
For coloring, you can use synthetic melaminalkide enamel (ml-12, ml-152, ml-197, ml-1110 with solvent N651). However, it should be borne in mind that these enamels at room temperature do not dry at all. At a temperature of 100-130s, which can be created using a reflector, synthetic enamels dry out for 30 minutes. They are good at metals and do not require preliminary primer, resistant to mechanical and physical effects, form a glossy film. But when dried, temperature control is needed, since when heated above 130, the melaminalkide enamel is irreversibly destroyed.
Finally, the last option is damaged. After removing rust, drying and degreasing the surface of it is shuck. Punching of putty usually use a mixture of super cement glue and nitroemal in a ratio of 1: 1, or epoxy resin and chalk in the same proportions. Operation is carried out by plastic, metal or wooden spatula. In such cases, the time of complete drying of the putty-one day.
Before processing the entire surface, make sure the painting of a small area is that the enamel tone coincides with the tone of "native" bath painting
In conclusion, I would like to draw the attention of readers to the fact that in the factory conditions, baths are produced in a thermal method, which is difficult at home, so the homemade "wig" will be not too reliable, and it will have to be periodically (every 3-5 years) to restore it. The deadline for enamel depends on the chemical composition of the water flowing through pipes and your accuracy when caring for the bathroom. Since it is not possible to remake the water, you should pay attention to cleaning and use no metal washcloths for it, and soft tissues and liquid cleaning agents that do not have the abrasive properties of powders. Moreover, now on sale there is a wide range of efficient liquid degrees, which will help extend the service life of such an easy paint as enamel.
The use of foreign paints, putty and primers for the repair of domestic baths is quite acceptable. Moreover, you can find ready-made sets to restore enamel coatings.
The sequence of work is the same, and the seller-consultant will help you to choose the most suitable overseas analogue.