How to insulate a metal entrance door for the winter in an apartment and a private house

We understand where the cold can go, we repair the opening, insulate the box and the door canvas.

How to insulate the metal entrance door, and where to start? In order not to make an excess job, you need to find out where the cold penetrates. He can go from the sash if she has too thin layer of filler. This material has a porous or fibrous structure. The air inside the emptiness does not spend the temperature and creates an obstacle of the winter frost. If moisture fall into the soft layer, it will significantly reduce its insulation properties. As is known, the liquid has a higher thermal conductivity than gas. Even with a sufficient filler thickness, the design efficiency reduces cold bridges - frame parts and through fasteners connecting the inner and outer side of the sash. To solve the problem, it is necessary to replace the material to the new with the best operational properties and put less rigid fasteners. If there is a draft, you should look for cracks in the design itself and the places of its adjoining to the base.

All about the insulation of the metal entrance door

How to find a leakage

Selection of insulation

Repair of opening

Insulation Koroba

Warming sash

How to find a cold penetration site

Channels may be several.

Blights

It should not be too cold. Under normal conditions, the inner plate is heated from the room. The surface with low temperatures, land, frost and condensate - signs that the sash spends cold. The more its area, the more intense the room is cooling. One of the reasons is the low quality of the trim and filling. Chinese and domestic manufacturers try to make their products affordable and supply sets at a low price. This is reflected in quality. Even in accordance with the technical regulations, the level of isolation may be insufficient.

The interlayer installed from the inside may have defects. When wetting its throughput increases. Moisture falls inside with a violation of production technology or due to the lack of waterproofing, which protects the pores and fibers from the pair in the air. Leaks occur through slots between soft plates.

Channels also serve metal parts that hold the facing panels and fittings. To understand whether they are the cause of the surface freezing, it is necessary to determine how much the facing temperature changes as they remove from them. Perhaps looking for a new filling does not have to. Before you insulate the entrance door with your own hands, you should read the instructions and explore the information on the warranty card. In most cases, after independent repair, the owner loses the right to warranty service.

Box

It is a frame installed in the opening, in which the sash is fixed. From the inside it is covered with a sealing elastic ribbon. This ribbon is often glued to the sash. It serves as a damper and fills the space when closing. Drafts appear if it is too massive and tough - then it interferes with complete closure. Voids are formed with insufficient thickness and density, wear, mechanical damage.

From the outside, the box is attached to the opening. Empties are filled with mounting foam. Even if the work was carried out correctly, and the slots were left, the foam collapses over time. It has a limited life. The service life is reduced if there is no protection against moisture. Peeling into the pores, water destroys their walls during freezing. In the conditions of high dampness, mold appears.

Not only strong drafts, but also weak imperceptible streams are capable of changing the microclimate indoors. To detect them, you need to bring a burning candle. Flame movement will indicate which way the air flow is moving.

Opening

At the cottage or in a wooden rural house, the walls are experiencing constant temperature and humidity deformations. When wetting, they increase in size. In the summer in hot weather, wood dries and shrink. As a result, the connection with the box is decomposed.

The house in the city is resistant to the external environment, however, in old apartments, the openings have to be repaired due to wear of structures. Brick and concrete over time lose strength and begin to crumble. In urban buildings with heated entrances, careful insulation is not required. It is necessary to get rid of drafts.

Types of insulation for doors

• Mounting foam - it is perfectly suitable in all respects, but it is more expensive than its analogues. As a rule, it is used only for sealing slots.
• Mineral wool - it is suitable for filling the sash and slopes. Produced in the form of plates and shapeless fibers. It has low thermal conductivity, does not burn and does not distinguish harmful substances. Release plates with different density. What it is more, the higher the conductivity and resistance to mechanical loads. The disadvantage is an open structure. Fibers quickly absorb moisture and lose their properties. To solve the problem, use a waterproofing film or a product with a protective shell.
• Polystyrene foam - produced in the form of a small thickness panels. It is more effective than mineral wool. The structure consists of bubbles with thin but sturdy polymer walls. They reliably protect from cold and moisture. Additional waterproofing is not required. The disadvantage is the ability of the walls to resonate, reinforcing sound. Polyfoam is poorly suitable for sound insulation. The material is on the influence of an open flame, even after impregnation with antipirens. It is toxic and highlights harmful substances at room temperature. One of the components - styrene - refers to the most dangerous poisons. Under normal conditions, its concentration in the air is not large, however, expanded polystyrene is not recommended for decoration of residential premises.
• Polyurethane foam - he is sprayed from a hand cylinder. To handle a large area, use special equipment. The coating on its operational properties is no different from the mineral wool panels of the average density. It is not toxic and fireproof. For mounting, you do not need a self-tapping screw for which the cold is transmitted inside. The difference from the molded products is the complete absence of gaps.
• Penofol - foamed polyethylene with foil shell. Released in rolls. It has a small thickness, so it is better to lay it on top of the main insulating layer. Polyethylene does not let moisture and is often used for waterproofing. Penofol is not toxic. Under the influence of open flame, it melts, not highlighting poisoning substances.

It should not be used in bulk materials - they fill in the inner space unevenly. This method is suitable only for factory conditions.

Before insulateting the iron door, it should be found out its width. The protective inner layer cannot be crushed. There should be no cracks.

Repair of the doorway

Clear base count. The gaps are expanding and plastering. With significant damage to the base lay the steel reinforcement grid and make formwork. The solution is gaining vague strength for four weeks. The passage must maintain its original sizes. Its narrowing or expansion is redevelopment and requires coordination in government instances. In the wooden opening, if necessary, install new boards with the necessary thickness. The edges with mold trails and mechanical damage are removed. The cracks are gate.

Thermal insulation of the door box

An old mounting foam is removed. The base is purified from dust and fat spots.

The position of the frame is checked by level. There should be no distortion. Differences with the dimensions specified in the technical passport are not allowed. It is possible to carry out additional reconciliation on the width and height of the canvas to take into account its irregularities, but the factory products are insignificant.

In order not to spat the wall and elements of the design, they are glued with a polyethylene film with a tape.

The mounting foam is applied to a wet surface. It is wetted with a brush. The wet medium accelerates the process of hardening the mass. Before use, the cylinder shake. Stacking is carried out by a continuous jet. It should not be risen so that there are no breaks. With a significant thickness, it is best to alternate several layers. Each of them dries for 20 minutes.

After laying, the polyethylene film is removed. Salves are removed by the construction knife. The walls are extinct or covered with plastic panels and dry-bedboard sheets. It is impossible to leave open areas - foam is destroyed under the influence of sunlight.

Metal door leaf insulation

In order not to leave the entrance open for a long time, you should prepare everything you need in advance.

Required tools and materials

• Drill and drill set.
• Screwdrivers or screwdriver.
• Joiner.
• Building level.
• Hacksaw wood and metal.
• Heat insulating plates or unformed products.
• Penofol or ordinary polyethylene film to protect against moisture.
• Steel profile to enhance the frame.
• Wooden bars - their thickness is selected on the thickness of the frame.
• Saws.
• Glue liquid nails.

Step-by-step instruction

Before you insulate the door in a private house or apartment, you need to install for what reason heat leaves. It is possible that the channels are a hard frame and through fasteners. In this case, the layer can not be changed. If you can replace it with more efficient, it is better to do it.

• The sash is removed from the loops and laid on the workbench. The place can be equipped on the floor. Work starts from the side facing the room. Accessories and trim dismantle. The casing consists of a metal sheet and the base, which is a sheet of fiberboard. Porous gaskets are cleaned. Then the free space is measured between steel frame elements. It will be needed to create a wooden crate consisting of bars. It should not be made from the steel and aluminum profile - these materials better spend the temperature.
• Bruks are treated with antiseptic and lacquered. The processing takes how long, but without it the details will quickly come into disrepair. An atmospheric moisture is condensed inside the canvas. It impresses an array, creating a medium for breeding microorganisms. Varnish closes the fibers, and the antiseptic destroys mold and bacteria.
• The bottom is covered with a plastic film with an adhesive of 10 cm. It is fixed on glue. Shakes are sickling with scotch. From above set the framework. Bruks are cut and connected with metal corners. You can instead of them in the angles to lay short bars adding stiffness to the crate. The step between the prefabricated elements corresponds to the width and length of the panels used as filling. Plates should be included in the cells of tight, but without significant deformations. The slits are filled with mounting foam.
• If the unformed mass is used, the sizes of the cells are set arbitrarily. What they are less, the stronger the docking of the outer and inside of the web, and the higher the conductivity.
• When spraying polyurethane foam or mounting foam, parallel rails from the top to Niza can be launched by installing rigidity in the middle between them. Mineral fiber is better to place in cells up to 50 cm high, otherwise the mass will fall down.
• A plastic film is glued onto a wooden frame and closed it removed when dismantling the DVP sheet. It is attached using self-tapping screws. Then the metal sheet is returned to the place.
• The sash around the perimeter is glued with a belt insulation. It is placed on a degreased pure surface, retreating from the front edge of 0.5 cm.