In crude weather, wood trim can be covered with ugly beatings. We tell how to prevent it.
Whatever the composition is covered with lumber, they are early or late, they begin to absorb moisture. The dimensions of coniferboats and rails across the fibers are increased by 3-5%, the parts of the solid sheath are resting in each other, overcome the resistance of the fastener, and the hump grows on the board wall. But there are ways of installation in which this does not happen.
1 Christmas tree (Canadian way)
A solid covering without gaps, the elements of which can be expanding freely and narrowed with moisture changes. If you trig only the upper edges of the boards, the nail caps will be hidden from eyes and protected from moisture, however, the probability of stitching is increased (such an embodiment is applicable only for thermal-carrying and wood-polymer composite products). The disadvantages of the "Christmas tree" should include primarily the increased consumption of the material and the need to close the angular joints with fairly wide vertical straps.
For the trim, the "Christmas tree" is ideal for non-rigid boards of tinted alder or aspen
2 Double-row lining (Scandinavian fashion, chess)
The boards are naked with a width of 10 to 200 mm wide, which closes the folding of racks or wide boards. The second row is fixed not to the first, but to the doom, otherwise it is not to avoid cracking and swelling the skin. In the facade "chess" is possible both horizontal and vertical orientation of parts, it is somewhat easier to decorate the angles, but it is more exposed to moisture, since the edges of the outer row boards remain open.
3 Special edge connection
Today, there is a lining with an improved folded or puzzle connection that helps compensate for the changes in the width of the boards. This is achieved, for example, due to the milling of a sharp microcamp and an increase in a quarter. The pinched lining can be mounted as nails and hidden clemmers; With horizontal installation, the comb must be directed upwards. The material costs only a little (no more than 30%) more expensive.
4 Cleaning with open intervals
This is the simplest way to avoid swelling, always used in the construction of fences. But for the facade finish, it did not fit: the lattice cover did not protect the main layer of the wall from atmospheric influences, and it looked inaccurately. But with the advent of modern windproof membranes, there was an opportunity to sow at home by Planken. This is not very wide (not more than 100 mm) and rather thick (20-30 mm) plane, but often polished boards, the edges of which are usually sharply at an angle of about 30 ° C, so that the gaps are almost imperceptible with the horizontal arrangement. Planken with straight edges are mounted only in combination with dark-resistant dark-color membranes. In both cases, non-combustible or fiber-based fiberglass-based membranes should be purchased.
Planken's cover looks perfect if the magnitude of the gaps and lining material is correctly selected
5 Sliding design
It is used quite rarely and mainly in the construction of decorative fences. Boards and rails are inserted here in the grooves on the frame racks; Sometimes thin strips "navigate" on the poles on the principle of the shoulder. Nails and screws are not used. Such a typeset wall can freely expand up (for this it is provided for the reserve of the height of the racks), but it is inferior to the strength and reliability of the brittered trim.
The "Braided" fence can be constructed both from traditional materials and from thin composite panels.
In conclusion, add that when installing it is important as often as possible (best - through a series) check the position of the parts using the level. And also - boards and rails it is desirable to cover the protective and decorative composition before attachment. This will avoid non-flock edges and the appearance of light stripes while drying the tree in the summer heat.